Wednesday, July 18, 2012

The Adventure Continues - June and July 2012


Special thanks to the following fellow travelers who shared their photos from the trip:

Sue and Dave Martin, Linda and Rich Nicoli, Mark Bigaouette, Eleanor Watson, Megan Cahill and Jason Brozovich, Judy and Tom Aubrecht, Don and Katie Haselbauer, Pam Langworthy and Richard Sargent.

Some of their photos were used to supplement the ones taken by me.

Each line below links to a posting for that day of the 2012 trip:

6.18 Prague

Prague 

Gathering in New York City for the flight to Prague that many of us were on. There were several flights from Minneapolis to New York that morning, so some had hours to wait, some had to dash to get to this connection. But we all made it.

Mark's jet-lag instructions included a 2-hour maximum nap in the afternoon at the hotel, followed by a walk around Prague and dinner. The hotel was fairly near Václavské náměstí (Wenceslaus Square), so that is where our walk began.

Národní muzeum (National Museum)

 Socha sv. Václava (St. Wenceslas statue)



Reminders of the Russian invasion - the damage on the front of the National Museum has been left.

Not far below the statue of Wenceslaus in the square is this memorial to Jan Palach and Jan Zajic.
Jan Palach (11 August 1948 – 19 January 1969) was a Czech student of history and political economy at Charles University. He committed suicide by self-immolation as a political protest, a symbolic event often taken to be central to events which led to the fall of the Iron Curtain.

The funeral of Palach turned into a major protest against the occupation, and a month later (on 25 February 1969) another student, Jan Zajíc, burned himself to death in the same place.

After the Velvet Revolution, Palach (along with Zajíc) was commemorated in Prague by a bronze cross embedded at the spot where he fell outside the National Museum.




Offering that would be less typical in a mainline US bookstore.



A shop off the square offering traditional Czech items, as well as general souvenirs. I bought eggs with ribbon hangers at this shop on a return visit at the end of my stay.


In old Slavic mythology, the linden (lipa, as called in all Slavic languages) was considered a sacred tree. To this day, the tree is a national emblem of Slovakia, Slovenia, the Czech Republic, and the Sorbs.


Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square)



Shopping Center with unusual men's urinal decorations - a good example of Czech humor.





Pomník Jana Husa (the statue of Jan Hus)



Pivnice U Pivrnice (our spot for dinner)




The walls were covered in cartoons which were beyond the language abilities of everyone in the group, but we were very curious.

Svečkova (my dinner choice)

Plzeň z tanku, or (Pilsner from a tank)

The beer in a tank pub is often surprisingly fresh, with a much fuller, rounder malt body than the pasteurized version. An even greater difference lies in the unpasteurized beer's peppery hop aroma and bittersweet finish. The flavors are noticeably more dynamic and bright than those of the pasteurized version.
Info from "Good Beer Guide: Prague and the Czech Republic" by Evan Rail

  In the Jewish Quarter (Josefov)





World Cup soccer game on the big screen in Old Town Square. ( A bit jarring next to the Hus Memorial!)

Soccer fans gathering.

Zmrzlina!

Farmers' Market across from our hotel.

6.19 Kutná Hora, Sedlec Ossuary & Rychov nad Kněžnou

Kutná Hora

Chrám svaté Barbory (Saint Barbara's Church) in Kutná Hora is one of the most famous Gothic churches in central Europe and it is a UNESCO world heritage site. St Barbara is the patron saint of miners (among others), which was highly appropriate for a town whose wealth was based entirely upon its silver mines.

Work on the monumental church of St Barbara began in the 1380s. In 1558 the cathedral was completed with the construction of the facade and three tent roofs.











Medieval frescoes depicting the secular life of the medieval mining town and religious themes have been partially preserved.
















More info:
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/732
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Barbara%27s_Church,_Kutn%C3%A1_Hora
http://www.kutna-hora.net/en/barbara.php/


Kostnice v Sedlci (Sedlec Ossuary

Kostnice v Sedlci (The Sedlec Ossuary) is a small Roman Catholic chapel, located beneath the Cemetery Church of All Saints (Czech: Hrbitovní kostel Všech Svatých) in Sedlec, a suburb of Kutná Hora in the Czech Republic. The ossuary is estimated to contain the skeletons of between 40,000 and 70,000 people, whose bones have in many cases been artistically arranged to form decorations and furnishings for the chapel. The ossuary is among the most visited tourist attractions of the Czech Republic, attracting over 200,000 visitors yearly.

Four enormous bell-shaped mounds occupy the corners of the chapel. An enormous chandelier of bones, which contains at least one of every bone in the human body, hangs from the center of the nave with garlands of skulls draping the vault. Other works include piers and monstrances flanking the altar, a large Schwarzenberg coat of arms, and the signature of Rint, also executed in bone, on the wall near the entrance.
















In 1278, Henry, the abbot of the Cistercian monastery in Sedlec, was sent to the Holy Land by King Otakar II of Bohemia. He returned with a small amount of earth he had removed from Golgotha and sprinkled it over the abbey cemetery. The word of this pious act soon spread and the cemetery in Sedlec became a desirable burial site throughout Central Europe.

In the mid 14th century, during the Black Death, and after the Hussite Wars in the early 15th century, many thousands were buried in the abbey cemetery, so it had to be greatly enlarged.

Around 1400, a Gothic church was built in the center of the cemetery with a vaulted upper level and a lower chapel to be used as an ossuary for the mass graves unearthed during construction, or simply slated for demolition to make room for new burials.

After 1511, the task of exhuming skeletons and stacking their bones in the chapel was given to a half-blind monk of the order.

Between 1703 and 1710, a new entrance was constructed to support the front wall, which was leaning outward, and the upper chapel was rebuilt. This work, in the Czech Baroque style, was designed by Jan Santini Aichel.

In 1870, František Rint, a woodcarver, was employed by the Schwarzenberg family to put the bone heaps into order, yielding a macabre result.

Rychov nad Kněžnou 

Great attempts were made to keep off the main highways as we went from place to place. This is a good example of the roads we used. If we did meet another vehicle, it was necessary to slow down and carefully navigate the shoulders of the road, if there were any.






Rychov nad Kněžnou had been the village my group was assigned to explore for our “Language Independence Day” at Dobruška, so there are more photos of the town on that posting from 2009.






Bylo nás pět, sousoší v Rychnově nad Kněžnou
"It was five of us" sculpture in Rychnově nad Kněžnou



Bylo nás pět je humoristický román Karla Poláčka, ve kterém autor vzpomíná na své dětství v Rychnově nad Kněžnou. Vypravěčem a zároveň hlavním hrdinou je školák Petr Bajza. Kniha je poměrně volným sledem jednotlivých příhod a dobrodružství, jež potkávají vypravěče a jeho čtyři kamarády: Čeňka Jirsáka, Antonína Bejvala, Edu Kemlinka a Pepka Zilvara z chudobince (chudobinec je kolektivní charitativní ubytování pro chudé). Román napsal Poláček krátce před odchodem do Terezína v roce 1943, poprvé vyšel rok po druhé světové válce. Roku 1995 bylo dílo zfilmováno jako stejnojmenný šestidílný televizní seriál.


It was five of us is a comic novel by Karel Polacek, in which the author recalls his childhood in Rychov nad Kněžnou. The narrator and main character is schoolboy Peter Bajza. The book is a relatively free sequence of events and adventures had by the narrator and his four friends: Čeněk Jirsák, Anthony Bejvala, Edu Kemlink and Pepka Zilvar from the poorhouse. Polacek wrote the novel shortly before going to Terezin in 1943. It was first published a year after the Second World War. In 1995 the work was filmed as a six-part television series of the same name. An English translation called "We Were a Handful" was published in 2007 by Karolinum Press, Charles University, ISBN-13: 978-8024614496.

From Frank: I read the English translation of this book mentioned about.  I really wanted to like it because of the author's life story and that he had written this as a lighthearted book in a difficult time in Czech history. But I had a hard time getting into the story. Perhaps the Czech version was written in the schoolboy slang of the era when it was written? The translation appears to use British schoolboy slang of about the same time period, which I found kept me at a distance from the characters. There was also very little emotion conveyed about the things happening in the story - which kept me from caring.




Price for a nice modest home 3,500,000 (about $175,000).


More coming soon.